Standing at little more than a thousand feet in elevation, Knocknarea is not the most intimidating hill in the world, but the cobblestone trail and muddy slopes leading to its crest provide plenty an obstacle for the hikers ascending it. Shin splints could develop quickly if one is not mindful to navigate the sturdier and flatter rocks, but even then the walk is rough on the feet. Moguls formed by mounds of peat create another challenge at the latter half of the ascent; whether one follows the winding switchbacks or disregards them in favor of the quickest route from point A to point B and climbs over the bumps, a strenuous leg workout is sure to ensue. Despite Knocknarea's proximity to sea level, the air thins closer to the peak and gasping for oxygen is a likely activity at the top. Knocknarea may only be a hill, but conquering its final stretch of stones definitely earns hikers a victory pose in front of the camera. After the celebration it is impossible to just turn around and head back to the parking lot, considering the panoramic view of Sligo and surrounding locales one encounters. If not broken by the ascent, one is humbled by the expanse of verdant farmland and trees stretching far off in the distance where they are thwarted only by gorgeous landscapes of rolling hills. The several minutes of admiration or wandering around the perimeter of the crest that result allow for much needed time to catch a breath.
More than a splendid vantage point, Knocknarea's summit is also the site of legend. In the company of us mere hikers, Irish mythology upholds that the corpse of a queen is enveloped by millions of limestone rocks spanning 108 feet wide and 40 feet tall. It is the largest cairn in Ireland, suggesting that the figure buried within it was undoudtedly one of high status. Queen Medb of Connaught, a goddess reputed for her insatiable lust, is widely known for having exploited countless men for sexual gratification and ascent into power. Apparently Fergus Mac Roich ("Son of Great Horse") was the only mate who could satisfy her, but Medb's prowess in bed was often extended to officers in her army as a means to ensure that they would remain loyal and fierce in battle. Her sexual intemperance, however, was a cause of concern for her husband, Ailill, who feared he would lose possession of the crown to one of her affairs. An argument over status and a discovery that Ailill kept a prize bull revealed that he did in fact own a majority of the household by custom. Angered by this reality Mebd gathered her troops and unleashed a bloody campaign on the kingdom of Ulster, who's sovereigns were the only ones with a bull of a higher breed than Ailill's. Faced by Ulster's hero, Cuchulainn, and his honor-driven men, Medb led her own into a conflict that would claim thousands on either side. Even though Medb captured the bull, when it was placed with Ailill's and a fight between the two resulted, perhaps a parody of the recent war, both were killed. Medb would eventually achieve the superiority she desired anyway when Ailill departed from Connaught, but her reign was cut short. In retaliation for killing his mother before his birth, Furbaide of Ulster cast a piece of cheese through the wind with his slingshot and inflicted a fatal wound on the queen of Connaught while she was bathing in a pool on Inis Cloithreann. Medb was buried, standing upright, on the top of Knocknarea so that her vengeful gaze would be forever directed toward her enemies in Ulster.
The thought of being within the spiteful scrutiny of an ancient queen is unsettling, and an eery feeling is produced when walking around the summit of Knocknarea with dark clouds looming overhead. As said before, the entire experience is humbling. Even the cows that release a bellowing moan over flimsy barriers when hikers wander in the vicinity of their young cause degrees of timidity. The especially bold hiker that claims a rock from Medb's Cairn may even find slight apprehension from the superstitious threat of the queen extending her gaze on them, as though climbing on her tomb wasn't enough. Can't say the sign at the trailhead didn't warn them.
I enjoyed the story about Medb, as I didn't go inside the visitor center to read about it. Was she really killed with cheese from a slingshot? There's some interesting mythology for you. One suggestion: maybe cut down a bit on the wordiness, especially in the first paragraph. Maybe also talk a little more about your own experiences climbing the mountain rather than generalizing.
ReplyDeleteNice use of legend. You might point out that Mebd was one of only 2 women who could satisfy Fergus, who was also completely promiscuous. How could you better weave the myth into the climbing part of your story?
ReplyDeleteThis piece reads as three very seperate parts. I agree with Mary and would like to see if you can do a bit more weaving of myth with your climbing.
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