Monday, July 23, 2012

Hildebrand- The Ghosts of West Belfast



Bleak. Grim. Haunted. Somber. Grave. Post-apocalyptic. Seas of disturbing adjectives swirl through my mind as we drive through West Belfast. I wasn’t really expecting anything else, you could say I’m getting what I prepared for.  Chain-linked fences with barbed wire imprison housing complexes and security cameras perch on rooftops and patrol the sordid lives that happen on the streets below them. George Orwell must have visited 1970s Belfast in a dream and put it in “Nineteen Eighty-Four.” What a dirty city. Has Belfast even left The Troubles behind? The graffiti still sings a song of rebellion and loyalist paramilitary groups: ghouls of the Ulster Defense Association and the Shankill Butchers are everywhere. Their faces are painted on buildings glorifying their actions; William McCullough smiles down at me from a mural in lower Shankill. You’d think he was some sort of saint and not the man who organized a grenade attack on the Gem Bar in the Catholic New Lodge area. 
The red hand of Ulster is never far from sight, still a sign of the loyalists. A particularly gruesome bit of graffiti shows a dismembered hand on a rock with the political flag for Northern Ireland flying above it. From a distance, I can see a horrifying mural of an Ulster Freedom Fighter aiming a gun outwards. My tour guide calls it the “Mona Lisa of Belfast” and I nod in understanding as the gun follows me around the corner. 
Its displays like this that make me believe West Belfast hasn’t moved on from The Troubles; this poor community is holding on to the one battle they have always fought. The populace is stagnant because there is no circulation of wealth, no economic advances, and no chance of keeping up with the modern world. All you have to do is go to East Belfast to see the difference. It’s overflowing with culture, beautiful architecture, and industry; there are signs everywhere saying “Our time. Our place. Belfast 2012.” This motivation is lost in West Belfast and as a result, this part of the city stays trapped in time. Every corner is a reminder of the corruption and warped politics that took place and every corner looks like it could explode from the pressure of being a city anachronism. 

3 comments:

  1. Nice opening. Hd it been raining, it would have been een more oppressive. Do you think Protestants see Ulster this way? Some excellent political analysis for the nationalist side.

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  2. This piece moves well, easy to read and provides a good amout of info with sounding like an encyclopedia.

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  3. I agree, your blog flows like a river without any big rocks preventing its constant progression. You also provide detailed information without boring your reader. The only thing I would suggest is to proof read one more time because there are a few very minor grammatical errors. Excellent post.

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