An extended walk to Dartry Park in Dublin’s suburb of
Milltown had caused me to postpone dinner well into the night, and at 9 p.m. my
stomach began to violently protest the decision. A meal was long overdue. On my way back to campus I crossed a
restaurant that had earlier intrigued me with its full menu and red neon “FOOD”
sign beckoning clientele from the front window.
At first glance, Mother Reilly's Bar & Restaurant looked like a red
shack protruding from a line of brick buildings, a blood blister jutting out of
the elegant Uppercross Hotel on Upper Rathmines Road. Looking inside I examined the interior for a
setting conducive to my growing appetite, having spotted the specials menu in
front of the door and being intrigued by the beefsteak and kidney pie, a meal
that would have Leopold Bloom salivating in moments. Several middle-aged men sat drinking at the
bar in silence, and behind them only a couple feet stood between the bar stools
and the hind wall. Because of a glare on
the window obstructing my view further into the bar, I was certain that this
small room would account for a majority of the establishment. I am partial to smaller pubs, anyway, so I
walked around the side and entered past a patron smoking on the walkway. We exchanged some muttered “heys” and I was
through the door.
The men at the bar nodded their heads in greeting as I
ventured down a narrow hall that exposed me to a much larger establishment than
was expected. A chain of small,
candle-lit rooms extended before me in a manner characteristic of a mineshaft
with oak beams supporting the ceiling.
Aside from the six or so men near the entrance, the rest of the bar was empty,
and this vacancy greatly accentuated the anachronistic feel that emanated from
the yellow walls with varnished wood wainscoting. Furniture consisted of ancient wooden stools
placed around wooden tables standing but two feet from the flagstone floors. Before sitting down to order, I perused the
dark hallways, half expecting to find a blacksmith shop or stables at the back. On the northern side of the bar a brighter
room offered contrast to the dim chambers adjacent, and at its rear a doorway
opened restrooms and a stairwell led to a beer garden and further to a higher
level of the restaurant, complete with a second bar. Now acquainted with the setting, I returned
to the first level and sat beside a charred fireplace, a Dutch oven hanging
inside it. Above my head a television broadcasted
the 2012 Match Play darts championships on mute.
Only a few minutes after sitting at the table, lower than my
knees, an attractive waitress with black hair took my order of the Bloomesque special,
chips, and peas, to be washed down by a pint of Guinness. Less than half an hour later my food was
before me, the smell of stewed beef rising from a small casserole dish beneath
a flaky puff pastry. Other ingredients
within the pie included carrots, mushrooms, onions, and chunks of kidney. Contrary to carnivorous Bloom, the latter of
these did not appeal to my personal taste, but its delicious counterparts made
up for the peculiarity. Overall the meal
was a delectable example of down home Irish cooking, and though it cost upwards
of €12 and required me to keel over to reach the plate, I was satisfied.
Good job capturing the ambiance, but you run through the food in a couple of sentences. What other food was to be found there?
ReplyDeleteEric, This creates s nice visual description of the pub, its old men bar sitting, etc., but a restaurant review has to do more that mention what you ate. You give the prospective customer very little to go on about what is on offer. Good pictures. You do seem to get around a lot more than many travelers. How far have you walked since you arrived in Ireland?
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